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Blown Away - Blow Off Valve For The 2.0T FSI Engine

A Brief How-To On Replacing The Infamous Bypass Valve On The 2.0T FSI Engine.

By Paul Piola, Photography by Paul Piola

As you leave the shop, the extra 50 lb-ft or so you got from the software upgrade has you laughing hysterically. the increased boost makes your 2.0t Fsi turbo engine feeling like it's on steroids. until suddenly, the fun stops. You push the throttle and a premature "pssh" of pre-released compressed air catches your attention, followed by a nauseating check engine light. You slip it back in neutral and lightly rev the engine. it sounds fine. Back to the throttle, the car feels like a dog. the torque is gone. The power delivery feels lethargic, as if it's naturally aspirated. Chances are, you've just experienced the failure of your factory diverter valve.

The diverter valve found in the VW/audi 2.0t Fsi engine is plastic. it uses a flimsy rubber diaphragm that's become notorious for breaking when the boost pressure is increased significantly. although it never occurred on Project dub, our modified '07 gli, it can happen within the first few months or even the first hours of a new software upgrade if you're unlucky.

When the diaphragm breaks, pressurized air leaks through it and doesn't make it into the engine. however, several turbo specialists have a solution, including Forge Motorsport. its billet aluminum, piston-type replacement should last the life of the car and only costs $255 plus installation.

Unlike traditional mechanical valves that are a no-brainer to replace, the factory units are electronically controlled and set off a check engine light when failure occurs. But the install is still simple, thanks to all the parts supplied in the Forge kit. the only time-consuming aspect when fitting one to our audi a4 2.0t was accessing the hard-to-reach allen screws that secure the factory dV and solenoid to the compressor housing. however, the install on VW applications should be more straightforward.

Once replaced, not only will you regain all your torque, but boost response between shifts should be improved as well. the check engine light will still be there, but give it about a week of daily commuting and it will reset itself. Ours went out after five days.

Note: We actually broke the 90 plastic bend in the vacuum line when we yanked on the 3" vacuum hose. however, we fixed it by attaching another similar-size vacuum line to the broken piece and created another 90 bend using a capped-off T-connector. We were thankful for the extra line, connector and hose clamps since it was past midnight 85 eurotuner april

  • Forge Motorsport's electronic diverter valve is a factory replacement piece for the 2.0t Fsi, with a billet aluminum construction and piston-type mechanism. the kit includes vacuum lines, a vacuum tap and electronic solenoid
    Forge Motorsport's electronic diverter valve is a factory replacement piece for the 2.0t F
  • You'll need a 1/4-inch ratchet with small extension and 5mm allen socket, screwdriver, dikes, razor and a pair of pliers to tighten the zip-ties
    You'll need a 1/4-inch ratchet with small extension and 5mm allen socket, screwdriver, dik
  • Access the factory diverter valve on the audi a4 from underneath. We started by removing this undertray -simply undo the eight screws with a flat-head screwdriver
    Access the factory diverter valve on the audi a4 from underneath. We started by removing t
  • If you don't know where the turbo is, follow the intake pipe from the airbox. in our case, it was on the lower passenger side. the dV and solenoid are connected to the lower side of the turbo compressor housing. Unplug the connector to the solenoid (it can be fiddly). then take a 5mm allen socket to remove the three screws holding the valve. Note: we used an allen key on the bottom screw, but the 1/4-inch ratchet would be easier
    If you don't know where the turbo is, follow the intake pipe from the airbox. in our case,
  • With a little patience, the three screws came out and the valve was free, although it took a frustrating 45min due to the tight space. once removed, we could see the broken orange rubber diaphragm - the source of our boost leak5
    With a little patience, the three screws came out and the valve was free, although it took
  • Use the two supplied screws to attach the new solenoid to the supplied bracket. then use one of the original allen screws to mock-up attaching the bracket to the new dV. Cut the supplied vacuum lines to the correct length and connect as shown. one line goes from the top of the valve to the top of the solenoid. the second goes from the bottom half of the valve to the nipple under the solenoid connector. use the zip-ties to secure the lines
    Use the two supplied screws to attach the new solenoid to the supplied bracket. then use o
  • Attach the Forge bypass valve with bracket by using the original three allen screws. the only difference is that one is now used to attach the new bracket to the valve - this is a photo from the rear and this is a photo from the front
    Attach the Forge bypass valve with bracket by using the original three allen screws. the o
  • ...And this is a photo from the front.
  • Now refit the factory wiring connector to the new solenoid
  • Connect the remaining length of vacuum line to the gray nipple on the solenoid, opposite the connector. run the line away from the exhaust manifold to avoid it melting. at this point, you can reinstall the undertray and lower the car
    Connect the remaining length of vacuum line to the gray nipple on the solenoid, opposite t
  • Run the line around the back of the motor, securing it with zip-ties. You may notice the plastic funnel to our Carbonio cold-air intake has been removed. We initially removed it to locate the turbo, only to realize we had to get under the car
    Run the line around the back of the motor, securing it with zip-ties. You may notice the p
  • Pull off the engine cover - it's not bolted down. On the driver's side rear, locate the three-way check valve that connects the intake manifold via a small 90 plastic bend and 3" hose. this is where the vacuum tap will attach. remove that 3" vacuum hose by breaking off both hose clamps with a screwdriver or a pair of dikes. When pulling the hose, be careful not to damage the 90 plastic bend coming off the intake manifold
    Pull off the engine cover - it's not bolted down. On the driver's side rear, locate the th
  • This is the supplied Forge vacuum tap that will connect the solenoid to the vacuum line you just pulled. since this car doesn't have a boost gauge, we hand-tightened the screw-in nipple with loctite and blocked off the other two with the supplied screw-type allen plugs. Keep the other nipples in case you later add a boost gauge, wastegate, methanol injection, FPR, etc
    This is the supplied Forge vacuum tap that will connect the solenoid to the vacuum line yo
  • Cut two small, sections from the larger 10mm vacuum line and attach it to the vacuum tap. This is what it should like, secured with zip-ties. it takes the place of the 3" line you removed
    Cut two small, sections from the larger 10mm vacuum line and attach it to the vacuum tap.
  • Attach the vacuum tap to the 90 bend and check valve, and connect the remaining long vacuum line with a zip-tie to secure it. You're done!
    Attach the vacuum tap to the 90 bend and check valve, and connect the remaining long vacuu
CONTACT
Forge Motorsport
By Paul Piola
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