If you don't know where the turbo is, follow the intake pipe from the airbox. in our case, it was on the lower passenger side. the dV and solenoid are connected to the lower side of the turbo compressor housing. Unplug the connector to the solenoid (it can be fiddly). then take a 5mm allen socket to remove the three screws holding the valve. Note: we used an allen key on the bottom screw, but the 1/4-inch ratchet would be easier | 
With a little patience, the three screws came out and the valve was free, although it took a frustrating 45min due to the tight space. once removed, we could see the broken orange rubber diaphragm - the source of our boost leak5 | 
Use the two supplied screws to attach the new solenoid to the supplied bracket. then use one of the original allen screws to mock-up attaching the bracket to the new dV. Cut the supplied vacuum lines to the correct length and connect as shown. one line goes from the top of the valve to the top of the solenoid. the second goes from the bottom half of the valve to the nipple under the solenoid connector. use the zip-ties to secure the lines |
Attach the Forge bypass valve with bracket by using the original three allen screws. the only difference is that one is now used to attach the new bracket to the valve - this is a photo from the rear and this is a photo from the front | 
...And this is a photo from the front. | 
Now refit the factory wiring connector to the new solenoid |
Connect the remaining length of vacuum line to the gray nipple on the solenoid, opposite the connector. run the line away from the exhaust manifold to avoid it melting. at this point, you can reinstall the undertray and lower the car | 
Run the line around the back of the motor, securing it with zip-ties. You may notice the plastic funnel to our Carbonio cold-air intake has been removed. We initially removed it to locate the turbo, only to realize we had to get under the car | 
Pull off the engine cover - it's not bolted down. On the driver's side rear, locate the three-way check valve that connects the intake manifold via a small 90 plastic bend and 3" hose. this is where the vacuum tap will attach. remove that 3" vacuum hose by breaking off both hose clamps with a screwdriver or a pair of dikes. When pulling the hose, be careful not to damage the 90 plastic bend coming off the intake manifold |
This is the supplied Forge vacuum tap that will connect the solenoid to the vacuum line you just pulled. since this car doesn't have a boost gauge, we hand-tightened the screw-in nipple with loctite and blocked off the other two with the supplied screw-type allen plugs. Keep the other nipples in case you later add a boost gauge, wastegate, methanol injection, FPR, etc | 
Cut two small, sections from the larger 10mm vacuum line and attach it to the vacuum tap. This is what it should like, secured with zip-ties. it takes the place of the 3" line you removed | 
Attach the vacuum tap to the 90 bend and check valve, and connect the remaining long vacuum line with a zip-tie to secure it. You're done! |