Project GTI Sound & Light Upgrades

Ah, Volkswagen. The name conjures up spirited times behind the wheel - "driver's wanted" isn't just a slogan, but more of a way of life for Dubheads across the globe. VW has long been not only the people's car, but also a driver's car.... that's how we look at 'em, and that's how VW sells 'em.

However, VW's never been an audiophile's automobile (stereo enthusiast, to the layperson) and although it may be a hunch, VW seems allergic to providing a decent stereo with any of its models. Case in point: Every VW ever sold

The original Mk1 Rabbit had two small 3.5" speakers in the dash while Mk2s stepped up with two 3.5s in the dash and two 4x6s in the rear - good for talk radio but not ideal for Motorhead or Rob Base, and certainly no good for drum 'n bass. The later Mk2s had the horrid "Aktiv" systems that made them harder to upgrade and still didn't sound any better, despite the addition of two more speakers.

The Mk3 and Mk4 stepped up to merely being adequate, and unfortunately the Mk5 is in the same boat.

Maybe it's just us. We're never really happy until a car is up to the task of moving down the road at a decent clip and providing decent tunes at the same time. Adding a sports exhaust system usually shows even more kinks in the armor of the OEM stereo system, and since we just upgraded our Project GTI, something had to be done.

The car's owner and our East Coast photographer, Josh Brown, spends a good amount of time either on the road or stuck in NYC traffic, so quality sound is important to keep him happy behind the wheel. After all, 250hp can't make you smile when you're stuck in the Lincoln tunnel

New Sounds
A quick phone call to Josh's long-time friend and fellow VW enthusiast, Kevin Walton, and Project GTI was on the road to having a system fit for a king.

Kevin's been professionally installing mobile electronics for over 15 years, so a simple amp and subwoofer wouldn't be a problem for him. He suggested Alpine for the hardware, and a small 1cuft Q-Logic box for low cost and solid performance. A new navigation-equipped dual-DIN head unit was originally going to be installed at the same time, but shipping delays meant we only got the amp and sub in time.

The Alpine MRP-M450 amp is designed for subs and can provide 250 watts (RMS) into a 4ohm load. Since we're using a 10" Alpine Type S dual voice-coil sub, the amp will be running at 2ohms, so will be kicking out 400 watts (RMS).

The small Q-Logic box for the subdoesn't need much space or add much weight. After all, there's no sense making a car perform better and then weighing it down with 300 lb of stereo.

Kevin lives in Florida and had flown to Maryland for a friend's wedding Josh was also attending. The pair met where Kevin previously worked and got started ripping Project GTI apart. With the rehearsal dinner only a few hours away, Josh stepped back and let Kevin work his magic.

Easy listening
After the install was finished and tuned, the results were outstanding - much better than either had anticipated. With the bass turned down on the head unit, the reduced load on the factory speakers and amp allows the mids and highs to sound cleaner and play louder.

The sub makes up for the slight reduction in bass from the stock speakers, and the entire system has a more dynamic and satisfying sound

Josh mentioned he's still planning to hook up his iPod, but said he will hold off on a new head unit for the time being. Apparently the steering wheel controls have spoiled him and he doesn't want to lose that function

Tools Needed
Crimpers, cordless drill, socket set, wire stripper,voltmeter, Torx driver set, sharp blade and pair of hands

Step 1. The Alpine and Q-Logic audio equipment contemplating a new life in Project GTI's hatch, which isn't huge - all that legroom has to come from somewhere. But with a compact box, 10" sub and small amp, we'll be making the most of what we have	Step 2. The first step was to disconnect and remove the battery to gain access to the firewall and run the power cable. We found a hole in the firewall, so no drilling was required, but ensure the hole is re-sealed so no moisture enters the car. Kevin used tape and an old antenna mast to poke the amp's power wire into the cabin	Step 3. The power wire comes out above the dead pedal. It was protected by split-loom. Be sure you don't run wire where it'll interfere with the clutch, brake or steering mechanisms. We got power for the amplifier from the power distribution/fuse block. Double-check you didn't leave the fuse in the amp wire accidentally. Installing the fuse should be the last step. The amplifier turn-on lead is tapped into a spare, switched 12v connection in the interior fuse box. Note we added a fuse to ensure safety. After all, you don't want to set your car on fire with either a burnt-out or short-circuited wire!
Step 4. In order to get an audio signal you must remove the stock head unit. To begin, use a panel popper to remove the top HVAC diffuser vent. Be careful because it's flimsy and you don't want to break it or mark the dash	Step 5. With the diffuser vent gone you can access the Torx screws holding the upper vents in place. The vents pull up and out	Step 6. This gives access to the two screws holding the radio trim panel. Remove them and the four more that hold the head unit itself
Step 7. Remove the head unit and disconnect the wiring harness. Locate the speaker wires for the rear speakers and connect the line-level converter here. Verify connections with a multi-meter, then use solder and tape for the best connection	Step 8. With everything zip-tied and wires run to ensure no loose connections, the line-level converter is now installed and ready to go	Step 9. The Rockford Fosgate RCA cables are run over to the 12v power cable. Wire ties ensure the cables don't move and electrical tape keeps the power, RCA and amp turn-on lead together. This makes install both cleaner and faster, but some installers avoid this since it's possible to introduce alternator whine and white noise by running them together. Fortunately, we've had no problems
Step 10. You then need to run the wires behind the interior trim. Be careful removing the hood release lever, as it doesn't just "pop off." You must slide the inner part to the side to release it - the same way you remove a Mk3 manual window crank	Step 11. Once the wires are hidden up front, Kevin ran them down the driver's side under the door sill trim panel	Step 12. The dual voice-coil Alpine sub is wired in parallel to produce a 2ohm load for the amp. The amp will be in mono to produce maximum power, but be sure your amp is 1ohm stable if you plan to run the sub this way
Step 13. Kevin has grounded the amp and is in the process of hooking up the wires. Always check where you ground the amp - you don't want to screw into the wiring harness or the gas-tank!	Step 14. The main power fuse and fuse holder are mounted and the system is ready to be fired for a sound check	Step 15. The amp sits on the back of the rear seat, held in place with four 1" trusshead screws. With the amp on the seat, it's simple to remove the sub box if
Step 16. Gorilla Grips hold the sub box in place and there's still plenty of room for Josh's camera equipment