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The Weakest Link?

Old MRydes Need New Clutches, Too

Photography by Drew Hardin
  • The car receiving the new clutch was a high-mileage ’83 Scirocco. It was time—past time, actually—to replace the clutch. The clutch swap procedure outlined here would be similar for just about any A1 (Rabbit/GTI/Scirocco) chassis from ’84 and back. VW Specialties’ Scott Wood began the swap by removing parts, like the air intake tube and strut tower brace, to give him access to the transmission mount bolts.
    The car receiving the new clutch was a high-mileage ’83 Scirocco. It was time—pa
  • Scott also had to disconnect the battery power wire to the starter, the clutch cable, and the ground wire to the transmission mount. Then he broke loose the bellhousing bolts that hold the transmission to the engine block.
    Scott also had to disconnect the battery power wire to the starter, the clutch cable, and
  • With all those parts loose or disconnected, it was time to get under the VW. Scott removed the lower stress bar to clear a path for the transmission to come out. He also removed the starter bracket, the starter, and almost all of the transmission mounting bolts. At this point, the trans was hanging on just a couple of bolts.
    With all those parts loose or disconnected, it was time to get under the VW. Scott removed
  • Scott pulled the center caps off the Scirocco’s wheels and removed the axle nuts, loosened and removed the bolts on the inner CV brackets, and then pulled the axles out of the car. If you’re doing this swap in your driveway, be sure not to move the car with the axles out, or you risk damaging the wheel bearings.
    Scott pulled the center caps off the Scirocco’s wheels and removed the axle nuts, loo
  • It’s tough to draft hard-and-fast procedures for older cars, Scott told us, because some of the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine and to the car itself may have been removed and not replaced during repairs done over the years. So, if there’s a bolt and half-moon bracket behind the right-side CV flange, it should be removed, should the bolts from the bottom of the bellhousing. None of those were on this car. Scott then removed the lower transmission mount.
    It’s tough to draft hard-and-fast procedures for older cars, Scott told us, because s
  • Rather than using a hoist to support the engine when the transmission comes out, VW Specialties fabricated this brace that fits across the engine bay. Scott hooked a length of chain between the motor and the brace, placed a jack under the transmission, and removed two of the three bolts holding the trans in place.
    Rather than using a hoist to support the engine when the transmission comes out, VW Specia
  • The car was lifted again, the last bolt was removed, and the transmission was pulled out. If you’re doing this job yourself, make sure you have a friend to help you with the transmission. “When you’re laying on your back in your driveway, bench-pressing the tranny is not fun,” Scott said.
    The car was lifted again, the last bolt was removed, and the transmission was pulled out.
  • Unlike traditional clutch setups, where the flywheel is bolted directly to the crankshaft, in this application the flywheel is sandwiched between the cover plate and the pressure plate, and the pressure plate is bolted to the crank. Scott removed the cover bolts to pull off the cover/flywheel assembly.
    Unlike traditional clutch setups, where the flywheel is bolted directly to the crankshaft,
  • Scott used a screwdriver to pop off the snap ring that held the release plate to the pressure plate and then pulled off the release plate. Behind the release plate were the bolts holding the pressure plate to the crank. He removed them and then gently pried the pressure plate off the end of the crank.
    Scott used a screwdriver to pop off the snap ring that held the release plate to the press
  • Scott noticed a fair amount of oil around the end of the crank, so he decided to replace what he guessed was a leaking main seal. Even if you don’t notice oil around the crank, it’s a good idea to pop a new main seal in place while you have the clutch off. Scott cleaned around the crank flange with a scouring pad and lubricated the new seal with assembly lube and motor oil before pushing it in place.
    Scott noticed a fair amount of oil around the end of the crank, so he decided to replace w
  • Here’s the Sachs Power Clutch kit as it came out of the box. The release plate and snap ring are at the top (with a small package of grease sitting inside the release plate), while the clutch disc and pressure plate are below them. Look closely at the crankshaft bolts; see the blue bands on the threads? That’s thread-locking compound applied at the factory. Nice touch.
    Here’s the Sachs Power Clutch kit as it came out of the box. The release plate and sn
  • Scott set the pressure plate on the crankshaft and installed the new crank bolts. If you choose to reuse the stock crank bolts, be sure to apply thread-locking compound before running them in. Scott tightened the bolts in a six-pointed star pattern to ensure even seat pressure across the plate, and he torqued the bolts down to the recommended factory settings (75 lb-ft for the new-style bolts with shoulders; the older bolts should be torqued to 55 lb-ft). Once the pressure plate was in place, Scott wiped its face with brake cleaner to remove any dirt, grit, or fingerprints.
    Scott set the pressure plate on the crankshaft and installed the new crank bolts. If you c
  • After Scott put the release plate and snap ring on the pressure plate, he test-fitted the new clutch disc on the transmission input shaft to make sure it would mesh. Then he placed the disc inside the flywheel/ cover assembly and mounted it to the engine.
    After Scott put the release plate and snap ring on the pressure plate, he test-fitted the
  • Before remounting the transmission, Scott thoroughly cleaned the input shaft splines. Any dirt or grit left here would cause grinding when moving through the gears, especially into and out of First and Reverse.
    Before remounting the transmission, Scott thoroughly cleaned the input shaft splines. Any
  • Then it was time to reinstall the transmission. Again, an extra pair of hands really helps when jockeying the case into position. Once the trans was back in place, Scott began the process of replacing all the bolts and mount brackets that hold the transmission to the engine and into the car. After enough bolts and brackets were fastened to support the engine and trans, Scott removed the brace from the top of the engine compartment.
    Then it was time to reinstall the transmission. Again, an extra pair of hands really helps
  • The swap’s final steps consist of reassembling and reconnecting what had been taken apart to get the trans out of the car: axles, starter, lower stress bar, clutch cable, intake air tube, and so on. Once the Scirocco was back on the road, the owner took it easy on the clutch for the first couple of days to break it in. He says there’s a “night-and-day” difference between the slipping old clutch and the new clutch, “and the car has more pep, too.” Now he’s ready for thousands of miles of crisp shifts.
    The swap’s final steps consist of reassembling and reconnecting what had been taken

If you’ve built a killer motor for your car, or if you drag race or autocross, you probably already know that a beefy clutch is necessary to handle all the stress that increased torque and harsh driving conditions place on your driveline.

But let’s say you don’t have, or do, any of the above. What if you own an older car, like an A1 GTI or Scirocco, that, at least for now, is just a daily driver? When time and cash permit, you plan to make some mods, but until you hit the Lotto you’re making due. Are you still a candidate for a new clutch?

You very well could be. Putting a new clutch in your car is nowhere near as sexy as a cold-air intake, strut tower brace, or some other, more visible, component. But a new clutch could have more of an effect on your car’s performance than any number of bolt-ons. Remember that the clutch provides the link between your engine’s crankshaft and transmission. If that link is weak, it’s going to have problems sending all of the engine’s power to the tranny and, ultimately, the driving wheels. The last thing you need in a car with an old, stock motor is a drain on already precious power.

How can you tell if you need a new clutch? Typically, a stock clutch will last anywhere from 60,000 to 80,000 miles, though that number can drop drastically, depending on your driving habits. Do you ride the clutch? Treat every stoplight like a dragstrip Christmas Tree? Well, a VW with a VR6 or G60 may go through clutches faster than a stock four-banger. So, watch the clock. And certainly, if you’re experiencing any slipping or hesitation when letting out the left pedal, it’s time for a new clutch.

When shopping for a replacement clutch, be sure to do some homework and match the clutch to your particular application. If you’ve got an older, basically stock car, like the ’83 Scirocco here, then there’s no need for you to spend the coin on a double-throw-down racing clutch with Kevlar plates and clamping forces that could smash atoms. You’ll do fine with a more reasonably priced clutch, like the Sachs Power Clutch we got from NOPI. Unlike a sport or racing clutch that can set you back $300 or more, this upgrade kit retails for way less than $100 and features all-new (not remanufactured) parts, a one-piece cover assembly, Raybestos-supplied organic friction material on the clutch disc, and diaphragm springs strong enough to generate a 15- to 21-percent increase in clamping loads over a stock clutch.

The stronger clamping loads will give you crisper engagement and can withstand all sorts of sporty driving punishment. In fact, a number of these units are being used in driving schools across the country, according to Sachs. Yet the springs aren’t so strong as to exhibit the harsh, on/off engagement found with some competition-oriented clutches.

If you’re on a really tight budget, you may be thinking about installing the clutch yourself. Before you make that decision, take a close look at the procedure shown here. This was done by professional Scott Wood at VW Specialties in Huntington Beach, California, who had the advantages of a lot of experience, a hoist, and a full tool roll-away that included the one or two specialized tools needed to get the job done. This installation requires removing the transmission from the engine, which in itself meant disconnecting and removing a lot of stuff, including the axles. It took Scott a full three hours to complete the swap. If you’re not comfortable with doing major engine work and you don’t have the means of lifting the car to get the tranny out from under it, consider professional installation. The $200 to $250 (which is what VW Specialties charges for this kind of job) may be money well spent.

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